TGO Challenge 2007:

This is the account of my 2007 TGO Challenge walk starting at Lochallort on the West coast. It was a two week walk. I finished at Montrose. It was a great walk and the route was not hard to follow.

Any coast to coast across Scotland is a challenge. What makes it possible is to attempt a route within your ability and take it one day at a time. Fail to plan - and plan to fail. The route I took was intended to be remote, quiet and to take in the odd summit and valley. I think my style of the Challenge was the inspiration for my Blog title. I had had my route vetted and some of the comments were interesting and suggested difficult river crossings and tricky navigation, along with forest sections that would make it hard to find paths and the like. Well, it is meant to be a challenge so I was pleased that my route was up to standard. The photos are here.

I got off the train at Lochallort and wandered into the Hotel to see if any other Challengers were around. As I start on a Saturday, I was not surprised to see no one. I noted some Italian Challengers had not signed out, and wondered if I would see them before I set off. I wandered down to Loch Allort to dip my boots in the water, as it's the coast and that is where you start, not at the signing out point. I wondered back to the Hotel to order a coffee and ponder the walk ahead. Not long after, I set off to take the pass to Loch Beoraid.

Planning to walk along it and over to Corryhully bothy and wildcamp near by. I made good progress and the weather was fine. I enjoyed an easy start to the walk. I made it over to the bothy with the river crossing and wee scramble here and there, as there is no path in many of the places the route took me. I set up my tent by the bothy. The occupants had in their number an electrician who was rewiring the electrical supply. That evening the estate keeper came by and I got into conversation with him about life in the hills, and asked if he believed in the stories of big cats running around the place. 


Turned out he did, and he told me of his only encounter. He went on to talk about others he knew who he claimed had seen big cats like pumas in the hills. Me, I'm a sceptic - except that I had a strange experience in the Lakes once and saw with my wife one night a very black and very large creature run through a hedge in Norfolk. Saying that I'm far from convinced - then there is the story of Norfolk Police finding a Lynx body that had been shot. The morning found me heading down Glen Finnan to look at the visitors centre and then move on to Cona Glen

Cona Glen wildcamp

I found a spot to pitch on but was regretting not camping high - but it was a good spot with only the odd shower. I fancied walking the next day to the end of the Glen and along the road to the ferry simply to get the view of the Ben in the distance. This I did and it turned out to be a pleasant day and the ferry took me across to Fort William where I booked into a bed and breakfast for the night (hardly remote). I met an American lady who was on the Challenge there. Sadly, she had broken her arm falling a few days earlier. Her husband had gone on ahead and she told me Roger Smith was coming to pick her up and take her to Montrose. Roger is a gentleman and every time I have needed to ask his advice in planning my walk he has been the most helpful and kind person.


I loaded up with four and a half days' food and headed out of town. It was a pleasant morning and looked at last that I might get the views from Ben Nevis. I made good progress with a slow but non stop pace. This worked out fine and I left the day walkers behind as I climbed the tourist track. It is a poor way up, but as I was going cross country it had to be done. The summit beckoned me on and I duly arrived to truly awesome views. Been up on Ben Nevis a few times without the views. First time I walked the Thieves Road I wandered up the Ben via the Carn Mor Dearg Arete. It was the first week of June that time and snowing. Snow again greeted me.

Summit of the UK

I thought of an old friend Frank. We did the Scottish 4000 summits in one go, backpacking for charity one year and he had to pull out half way. He was gutted as I left him to finish on my own, and did the Ben in the mist that trip. I wondered how Frank would have enjoyed the view today. He moved away and has the film of the walk the old sod. If I get it back I'll write up a report. It was a grand walk - wild camps on Ben Macdui and just off the summit of the Angel's Peak. Strange how you remember old walks and friends. I took in the views and phoned Helen. I missed her and let her know I was OK.

Looking East

I walked about the summit taking time to enjoy the scenery and take the odd photo. The Arete awaited and I headed over to do it. I dropped down to the start and slowly made my way along it. Great fun scrambling along the ridge and the good weather made it even better.

I arrived on the summit of Carn Mor Dearg and took in the amazing view of the cliff face of the Ben.

The Ben

The next step on the walk had me descend into Glen Nevis to camp and set me up for the next day on part of the Mamores. Superb views were to be had on the way down and I enjoyed every moment.

The wildcamp was a good and I did regret dropping low, but I had to cross the glen anyway. The morning had me heading up to the East end of the Mamores, with rain forecast. I hoped to get a few summits and only revert to the foul weather route if it came in bad.

Back on the trail

I made the summit of Binnein Beag and black clouds and showers appeared, so I thought I would drop into the corrie to use the path round to Sgurr Eilde Mor hoping the other summits would offer some shelter from the weather. I made the summit on the last Munro of the day; showers came and went and I got some views. I looked over to Rannoch Moor. I headed off the ridge for Meannnanach Bothy and crossed the river calling in to see who had signed the bothy book. It was empty and I moved on. 


I encountered two Police officers on holiday, who asked me directions to Corrour station. I told them I was going that way and said follow me. They asked me how long it took me to cross the river to which I replied, a minute or so....they looked shocked, turned out they took about an hour to find a spot and make it across. I made camp by Loch Treig - they went to the station bed and breakfast.

I wondered if I could get a bacon buttie in the morning from the bed and breakfast at Corrour Station. I was up hoping for that buttie and headed up to Corrour. The cloud was down so I decided to stay low. The man in the B&B took my money and delivered a bacon roll and coffee for me. Heaven. I had spruced up with a dip in the burn that morning and felt great; just a shame the weather was closing in. I took the path to Peter's Rock then made for Corrour Old Lodge. I was just below the cloud and kept moving. 


My route took me cross country and off path. My route vetter had predicted slow going here, but I guessed that deer and Land Rovers would have made paths, and I was right. I made for Loch Loin nan Donnlaich and crossed the deep river by a bridge not on the map; I had gambled that there would be one, or I would have waded across. I picked up the track to Loch Ericht and the rain came in heavy, along with the wind. I was hoping to get the view up the Loch and all I got was this.

I headed on to the dam at the Loch end and made camp by the ruins of Ruighe Ghlas for the night.

The morning brought heavy rain as I walked up the road past Carn Dearg. I headed cross country past Glas Mheall Mor. I followed the Allt Shallainn to Duinish and had a brew out of the rain and wind in the bothy. From there it was cross country to Loch Errochty and a camp. The forest I was going to find a track through the next day turned out to be three feet high, and as I camped yet again in the rain I knew I had one short push to a campsite and resupply. I pitched by some ruins not on the map and awoke to yet more rain. It was awful - I walked the path to the end of the Loch and thought, sod it, I'll haul out along the road a few miles to the camp site at Blair Atholl. 


As I phoned Challenge control - I had taken off my waterproof and it poured down just feet from shelter (typical). I encountered my second Challenger at the camp site - an Austrian chap. We had a chat and a beer and meal later that night. The Challenge can be a social event, but I don't plan my route for that: its great to meet folks and I think it's part of the event, but I still place the walk as the main thing for me. The morning saw good weather starting to appear. Marcus had posted his map for his next section to be picked up at Blair Atholl. It hadn't arrived, so I wandered around with him trying to find a place to photocopy mine for him. It got copied and we went our separate ways. I was heading for Glen Tilt.

Wonderful Glen Tilt

I had thought about Beinn A Ghlo, but took the easy route as the weather on the tops still looked like rain and I was feeling lazy and missing Helen, so I thought the Glen would be fun and I could enjoy the good weather lower down (plus I always wanted to walk Glen Tilt). The Glen turned out to be just wonderful, a real joy, and the weather got better as the day went by. I made my way up the Glen and past the bridge at Falls of Tarf. I left the Glen heading towards fealar Lodge.

The weather had improved and I enjoyed the views. I walked past the Lodge and the dogs barked as I went by. It is a nice little hamlet of houses and strikes me as one remote and high place to live. I went over a ridge towardes Carn an Righ and made camp for the night.

Best wildcamp of the trip

It was the best wildcamp of the trip - I always enjoy the remote high places on the East. The morning found me diverting from my original route and taking in a few summits. The weather was good, with strong winds.

Looking to the 4000 Summits and on the tops

Beinn lutharn Mhor was the first of the day followed by Mam nan Carn then Beinn lutharn Bheag. Big sky and big views were the order of the day as I pushed on. I dropped down to walk across towards the Baddoch Burn and followed a stream up a burn to Carn nan Sac. From here I went along the ridge into stronger and stronger winds, to the summit of the Cairnwell.

From there I dropped to the ski centre to use the payphone to contact Challenge control. I realised my phone battery was running low and only managed to get the number for control of it before it died. I managed to get the call in then headed back up to bag Glas Maol. It was a wonderful spot, despite the wind. I waited about, taking in the views, when a walker came up to the summit. He was a postman who played the pipes on every Munro he did. I asked him to knock up a toon and he obliged.

Nice chap; we had a talk about the hills and stuff and then I bade him farewell, heading to Glen Isla via Monega Hill. I made camp in the Glen.

Glen Isla

which was a windswept place. I had a brew and took two photos - and then disaster: my camera (which was new) battery died on me as well and I did not have a spare. I was gutted, with more days to come. I have no photos, but I'll tell the tale of the rest of the walk.

Morning broke and I walked down the Glen. I took the track up to Finalty Hill and from there in, good weather and views followed a track not on the map to Mayar. Truth be told, you could all but drive a Land Rover to the summit and I soon moved on, heading to Driesh. I'd wanted to do this summit when I'd walked past it in Glen Doll, on my 06 Challenge with Henri. I liked the cliffs and shape - also I find the Glens here remind me of the Lakes with their stone walls. 


On Dreish I sat talking to folks in the wind break about the area and then left the tops for the last time, dropping into Glen Prosen. I walked into the village. A lady farmer said I could pitch in her fields if I needed, but I found a spot in a wood over a new bridge in the village. I had no clock or way of telling the time - the morning sunlight woke me. I left, heading for Brechin and a road walk. Along the Glen I encountered about twenty sheep in the road with a bull. I was a bit concerned and with a loud clap I was pleased that they turned around, walking the way I was going.


It got worse as the bull bellowed and the sheep bleated to every other animal in the fields. Luckily they went down a lane by the Scott Monument. I walked on heading to Brechin. I arrived via back roads and found a bed and breakfast for the night. I phoned home and that night some Challengers booked in. Two ladies, one of whom was married to the one of the chaps who run Callater Lodge during the Challenge. I had called into there with Henri in 06. We had a chat and a drink. We left hours later to go over Jocks Road, saying we must call again. In conversation with the ladies I heard the tale of a man walking the whole length of the UK, who was also doing the Challenge on the way; I was suitably impressed and was told his name was Alan Sloman.

The morning found me in a hurry. I was missing Helen and decided to make the coast fast, finishing at Montrose instead. I went for it and got to the beach midmorning and dipped my toes in the sea - it is a coast to coast after all...I wandered back into town, to the Hotel and Control. I said hi to the American lady who had broken her arm and went to sign in and get my certificate.

I walked outside. I did not know anyone. Terry, Ian and Paul from Liverpool from the 06 walk were not there. Dennis, the man who we had had many a dram with the year before, I did not see. I went to the station and booked a ticket to get home. I asked if it was possible to make it home that day to Norwich? The man at the ticket booth said yes. I was missing Helen but feeling torn between staying for the evening do, and her. I got the train and my TGO Challenge was over.