10 May, 2009

Peak District backpacking:

I enjoyed the drive up north early in the morning. The views along the A623 made a fine show. I had not been to Hayfield for probably thirty years. The car was parked and packs shouldered. The road out of the village that goes up to Kinder reservoir was followed and from there we went into the hills and moors following Williams clough. The weather was windy but fine. Good views lay ahead. The photos of them are here.





The path up to Ashop Head is a enjoyable one and we went east following Kinder Scout’s Northern edges. It is the best part of Kinder and has a sense of remote about it. We enjoyed breaks along the route and the path zig zaging around stunning rock formations.


We left the edge by Blackden Moor and went down via the edge overlooking the brook then crossed it lower down. From there we had a short road walk to join the track into Alport Dale. It is a scenic valley with steep sides. We took the path over the river and up onto Alport Castles with stunning views all round. The wind up there was very strong.




We went along the edge via Westend Moor and dropped over the other side to wildcamp by Ravens Clough. We had some shelter from the wind here but strong gusts of wind buffeted the tents, I could hear OC’s Laser being shaken around and the Scarp shook along in the strong gusts. We watched the sun go down and the moon come out. Good end to the day.




The rain showers blew in and out over night and it was very cold. The morning found us packed early and heading onto the Ridge and up to join Bleaklow Hill. OC had never seen anything like it. 


The peat hags are a unique sight and the walking is up and down them and around. You don’t keep a straight line for long. We spied another bright tent pitched down in the area marked the Swamp on the map. I have walked through that part before and it is not a swamp and has good wildcamp spots.




We went on to pick up the Pennine Way to follow it back to Mill Hill. It made for quick progress compared to walking on Bleaklow. I encountered a National Park Ranger and we got to talking about walks and he asked where we had been? I told him if I answered that question he might tell me off. 


He laughed and said “you have been wildcamping” he was not bothered and said if there are no fires or litter he turns a blind eye but to remember it is not allowed. I have never stuck to that no wildcamping rule.




Drops of rain and hail started to pelt us as we made it to Mill Hill. We then retraced our steps back down Williams Clough to walk back to the car. The rain came in very heavy and we did not mind as it had been a good walk. The memories of childhood flooded back and I thought of happy times walking with my late father on holidays camping at Hayfield. I don’t intend to leave it so long before I return to there again.

16 comments:

Hendrik M said...

Nice wrap-up. Like the picture of the Scarp and the rising moon, and the rocky formations look superb.

Its surprising to read that you're not allowed to wildcamp in the UK. Its the same in Germany and much of Europe, only the Nordic countries have the "Everyman's Right" which allows you to virtually camp anywhere. I'm happy that you didn't run into problem, and hopefully the legislation in the UK will be changed soon to make you less of a criminal ;)

Martin Rye said...

In the UK Hendrik you have to ask permission in England and Wales. In Dartmoor National Park it is legal to wildcamp as it is a by Law. In the Lake District it is allowed in the National Park (National Trust land) at 1000ft or above the last intake wall if I recall. In Scotland it is legal and has the odd exception. So you need to ask and in the Peak District don't ask as they will say no. Go to:

http://v-g.me.uk/WildCamp/WildCampLegal.htm

for a good write up. I don't follow all the rules like most backpackers in the UK. One rule I do follow is: leave no trace, leave it as you found it.

Hendrik M said...

Useful information for future trips there! I follow the same rule of "leave no trace behind" and occasionally even clean up after other folks - as happened this weekend.

James Boulter said...

Good route there Martin. Alport Dale is my favourite valley in the Peaks. It can be a good challenge to follow the river bed upto grains in the water but the tops are just as good. Will be interested to see what you thought of the Scarp (please give it a bad write up to save me any future temptations!).

As to general rules regarding backpacking / hiking in the UK, we have it very easy in comparison to Ireland where I am heading next month. You have no legal right to even access alot of the hills with many landowners covering their land with 'keep out' notices and barbed wire. I will definately be ignoring the rules there. At least the hills will alot emptier than here.

Martin Rye said...

Hendrik Geoff’s site has a proliferation of useful information, walks, kit reviews, links and is one of my favourite web sites. Top 2 to be honest.

James Ireland sounds good. On the Scarp here is a quick opinion. It is:

. Fast to pitch (very fast)
. Stable in strong winds
. Useless in strong winds if it changes direction
. Has huge internal space (better smaller and bigger porches)
. Is a cold tent due to the wind blowing through the tent thanks to the high flysheet
. Has small porches, which is a shame

I don’t mind it but would like a Voyager superlight to be honest. So there it is.

kate said...

so close yet so far! we were bivvying on derwent edge on fri night. perfect weather :)
great photos btw

Martin Rye said...

Kate Derwent Edge is a great place. It was a good trip for me apart from the rain at the end. Thanks for the comment on the photos. I want to get better with a camera.

Nielsen Brown said...

Thanks for the great report Martin, look forward to your comments on the Scarp

Martin Rye said...

Nielsen thanks and I will need to use the Scarp lots to give more views than my comments to James.

GeoffC said...

An evocative account and pictures again, great stuff. I'm wary of talking to rangers in the Peak because of the (justified) paranoioa about fire in summer.

The wind always blows your head off at Alport Castles!.
Bleaklow Hill is a superbly desolate place and quite easy to find a pitch considering the general character of the area.

Martin Rye said...

"Justified paranoioa about fire in summer". Is a very good point Geoff. Lots moorland there. I noted a nice spot or two on Bleaklow for another time ( winter) where you would need to take water high with you but it would be a good wildcamp spot. Thanks for the comments on the pictures.

Chris Cowell said...

Enjoyed the post Martin, looking forward to a couple of weeks up there in August (my folks live on the edge of the park).

Going to explore Alport Dale :)

Martin Rye said...

Alport Dale is great. Walked down the upper end of it a few years back and it is a joy. Have a good time in August Chris.

Chris Cowell said...

Enjoyed the post Martin, looking forward to a couple of weeks up there in August (my folks live on the edge of the park).

Going to explore Alport Dale :)

Nielsen Brown said...

Thanks for the great report Martin, look forward to your comments on the Scarp

James Boulter said...

Good route there Martin. Alport Dale is my favourite valley in the Peaks. It can be a good challenge to follow the river bed upto grains in the water but the tops are just as good. Will be interested to see what you thought of the Scarp (please give it a bad write up to save me any future temptations!).

As to general rules regarding backpacking / hiking in the UK, we have it very easy in comparison to Ireland where I am heading next month. You have no legal right to even access alot of the hills with many landowners covering their land with 'keep out' notices and barbed wire. I will definately be ignoring the rules there. At least the hills will alot emptier than here.

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