
Day three 21 miles 1476 ft accent:
As I sat in the DuoMid cooking the rain was falling. I looked at the map and decided the plan to go up by the forest edge and Beinn a Bhrie was not needed. I had seen deer using the large clearing through the forest as a route through following the river. I decided to follow the river up to a small unnamed loch on its edge and then across country to strike the path to Loch Mhic Idmhair. I set off early and soon made the track. It was open terrain and had a sense of wild about it.

The path to Loch Mhic Idmhair again broke up the tussock and heather bashing sections.

From the loch I followed the track till it ran out and then went across country with the views looking good despite cloud clinging to the tops and the very strong wind.

It was a vast landscape to view. I had walked some of the Fannichs a few years back and hoped to get some tops in today. The evident lack of views due to the cloud on the summit and knowing the wind would be strong led to me keeping to the valley.

I made my way along to the track by the water pipe flowing from the loch and then to the track leading along its edge. I was shocked to find that track was now a tarmac road all the way to the lodge. The views were mixed - still it was good walking.

Where the track ends there were reminders of lives once lived in the glen. It must have been a hard life trying to make a living here in the winter.

I had to cross the river flowing from the Nest of Fannich. The river was easy. Getting over the mud flats and bog to it was more problematic. Once done I went into the glen to follow the Abhainn a Chadh Bhuidhe. Here again was a fine track not on the 1:50 000 map which eventually ended but basic vehicle tracks carried on.

I used these and it clung to the high ground. The bog and terrain below was harsh. I had not decided where to camp and decided to push on to pitch in Gleann Tanagaidh where I have camped before and knew had some superb spots.

I used these and it clung to the high ground. The bog and terrain below was harsh. I had not decided where to camp and decided to push on to pitch in Gleann Tanagaidh where I have camped before and knew had some superb spots.

The best part of the day was the dominating view of Slioch. The best mountain I have done to date. I waded thought the tussock and bog to the camp.


I pitched up and made a meal. I started to feel under the weather. I had had a infection leading up to the walk and hoped the antibiotics had cleared it up. I feared it had not - or I was coming down with something else. I enjoyed the views and turned in for the night. I awoke in the early hours as it was turning cold. I zipped up the sleeping bag and bivy. I still felt rubbish and went back to sleep. The wind was getting up and rain lashed the DuoMid waking me up again.

Day four 6.5 miles 620 ft accent:
I awoke to see snow had fallen on the tops. It was cold and rain showers rolled in and out. I felt rough and needed to think my route over. My plan was to walk along Loch Fada and then take in Beinn Tarsuinn and A Mhaighdean. A mountain I had done years ago. The snow showers and weather ruled the tops out. My illness ruled them out as well. I was concerned that I could get worse and be stuck in a remote area. I decided that bailing out to Kinlochewe was the best course of action. I had no days to spare and knew my walk was not going to finish as planned but went out to Kinlochewe. I met one backpacker following a low level route on the way out. He told me I had done the right thing by walking out. "Best to be careful" he said. It did not make me feel any better.

I cursed the rain for making it hard to photograph the views of Loch Fada - still Beinn Eighe made a great view to see walking out and the weather was better in the glen. I recalled the view from it many years ago. I was gutted and my pace was slow. I made the village and found a room for the night. There is a limited bus service out of town this time of year until June. The bus for my connection had gone that day and I needed to find transport to get me out of there. That was another problem to solve while dosing up on medication and trying to shrug off my illness. After that the walking was over and my thoughts turned to getting home.

25 comments:
Well you go some good photos there Martin. Sorry that it didn't all go to plan, but better safe than sorry when you are on your own.
sorry to hear that martin. hope you're on the mend now. wise decision, there's always next year...or late this year for an unofficial crossing :)
...still, some great photos despite the rain.
Chris thanks. Safe is good - especially on your own
Kate the photos came out well. I am going back to Scotland later in the year. Maybe even twice more. Thanks and good to hear from you :)
I've really enjoyed your fine reports and top pics, Martin.
Having to bail when you've gone so far and done so much is always a major disappointment but it's usually the right thing to do, so don't feel bad about it. It'll give you more resolve next time out.
Its a shame when illness means you have to bail out on a backpack. The photos make it look like you had good weather though!
Bad luck Martin. No fun in wild country when you're a bit under the weather.
Hope all goes well on your next visit(s) here.
Martin, there are some lovely big-sky wilderness photos there! Wow! Next time you'll make it all the way.
Stef thanks. Hills don't go away. Ill be back :)
James the glens were bit windy the second long day. Clag on the summits and rain showers up there. Expect the wind was strong up top. Not bad most time down in the glens. Last day there was snow on the tops and rain as one photo shows. coming home on the bus back to Inverness there had been a lot of snow on the hills north of were I had been. Destitution road was well good. Moody clouds rolling in and out. Snow dusted peaks revelled.
A foot in the hills (sorry your name eludes me) thanks. Like I said to Stef I will come again. Cant complain. Done three coast to coast routes in Scotland. Bad day at the office.
Joe thanks. You should come over and do the Challenge and get a coast to coast in yourself.
Just catching up after being away (dog training - not hiking unfortunately!). So sorry to hear your plans went pear shaped - I hope you're feeling better now.
I'm sure you'll be out again soon!
Sophie
Great photos Martin. Hope you are feeling better now.
Even trying to get home can be bad enough when you are feeling rough.
Sophie thanks.
Alan glad you liked the photos. I am on the mend and will be training later this week for my next walk.
That's a great picture of the pipeline, shows impact to the environment, has interesting composition, muted tones, big country and starkness. I've only walked up a couple of the Fannichs and have been wondering what would be the best way to the do the remaining seven. After reading your post, cycling seven miles along a tarmac road to the lodge gives me a way to complete a great 16 mile high level tramp then free wheel back to Grudie power station ~ something to look forward too!
Really enjoyed the reports and photos Martin. Despite the disappointment of the unplanned ending it looked like you got into some great places. There are so many interesting hills to explore in that area.
The tarmac is from the turn of at the Loch head Colin. You will zip along it. Not bad after that as well.
Nick thanks. it is a great area and I will be back. Fisherfield is a place I have only backpacked in twice. Touched base with loch Fada two years ago and walked out after a superb wildcamp near the summits years ago by its shore. Magic place.
Great article Martin. You' ve inspired me to want to go back to Scotland. It may be too late this year for me as I cant stand midges.
How do the goretex socks perform? Do you need to buy Innov 8 s a size bigger to fit them ? Are they too warm on a hot day?
Get up North Greg it makes sense. The Gore-Tex socks are fine. No issues and on a real hot day i would not wear them as the socks would dry fast and the bogs tend to be dry. On size I found my 320 a tad tight with them on compared to my 310 pair. I do like the 320 a lot. Worked fine with my normal size. Saying that a half size up might be a good idea for you. Try before you buy in the shop.
Feeling lousy in the hills is a real downer, but there was still some fine walking on that trip. More to look forward to next time.
Thanks Geoff. There was indeed some fine miles. I had a look at a photo of the view from Wyvis the other night. Wow. Shame I missed it but still up on the summit was great. I am back in Scotland later in the year and maybe sooner if I can.
one of the reasons i read your blog is because of the breath taking photos ... even in the rain :-)
Sally that is a very kind comment and thanks.
Mate, you did the right thing. Real shame about the illness. Maybe Karma will mean an amazing trip out next time?
Thanks for the comments on both posts Terry. I cant complain as I have had a few Coast to Coast walks with no problems in Scotland. Next time I am hoping for a stunner.
On the DuoMid it is great. Single skin is Ok. I am going to use it on my next trip. Apart from the Dartmoor walk it has been on all my trips since I got it. Interesting mini review on it on Joe's blog and some comments from me.
http://thunderinthenight.blogspot.com/2010/06/mountain-laurel-designs-sil-nylon.html
Its a shame when illness means you have to bail out on a backpack. The photos make it look like you had good weather though!
I've really enjoyed your fine reports and top pics, Martin.
Having to bail when you've gone so far and done so much is always a major disappointment but it's usually the right thing to do, so don't feel bad about it. It'll give you more resolve next time out.
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