Posts
Trip Report Cumbria Way April 2011
Photos Here.
The Cumbria Way has been a mini obsession in my mind since the last failed attempt when I made a mistake and ended up in hospital with a head injury. The Easter weekend offered a window of opportunity to return and complete the trail in one go. Last time we allowed four days and a day of travel to get back. We had also travelled up in the evening before the start.
This time around we had less time. We travelled up in the morning at 4.30am on Good Friday and planned to be home in the evening of the Monday bank holiday at the latest and hoped to be done in three days if we could.
Like last time, Karl Holden was to meet us for a day or two on the walk. I had planned to go with very light kit, but at 4am I was repacking kit into a heavier pack as I wanted its comfort and mesh back as the forecast was hot for the day. Keith arrived and we left. We made Ulverston in good time and awaited Karl. He arrived, and after a trip to a shop for a late breakfast we set off after the obligatory photo at the start. We knew the way ahead and expected to make fast progress.
This time others were on the walk ahead of us. A large group of walkers with day packs and heavy boots started ahead of us. They had a guide leading them. We chatted to them as we walked and made our way up to the first small climb beyond Old Hall Farm. From there we left the group. This time tea rooms were open and people sat enjoying the sunshine. We made excellent time and the walking was easy going.
We met one other backpacker laden down with a large load. We said hello, then left him behind. The miles were soon eaten into. We passed the site where I had my accident and onwards to Beacon Tan. Here we had a break and enjoyed the view. The long trip up in the morning and a few miles walked already found us having a good break. Despite the warm weather the wind here chilled us and windshirts and softshell tops were needed to ward of the wind.
From there it was down hill to walk along Coniston Water. This was a good section of the trail from where I enjoyed the sights of spring as we walked, with the lake lapping the shore adding to the joy of the walk here. The path is good and the miles are fast to do.
Coniston made a needed stop for essential additional hydration. Cold drinks and a short rest enjoyed, we pushed on. The walk with the evening light through Tarn Hows wood to Tarn Hows again proved a low level walk can be fantastic to do.
The paths around Tarn Hows are wide and well made. The Tarn is in reality formed by three tarns and the work of man to make it into one. We filled up on water and walked around taking in the views. A tree fallen with hundreds of coins embedded into it caught our attention. From there we left the Cumbria Way to find a wild camp. The small hills at the end of the tarn offered a good camp spot after a bit of exploring. I am fussy about pitches for wild camping and take my time in selection of a spot to camp. Once we all agreed we made camp. It was getting late and camp was needed. Food, brews and sleep called. In between making that happen we had the normal chat about tents, shelters, past walks and kit. Then called it a day.
I slept well. Very well, despite the rain showers that had blown through durning the night. I awoke early as we planned a long day, and figured if we got going we could be done in three days. The dawn was a welcome sight and I took in the views, enjoying a warm drink to get fired up for the day.
Karl had said he would walk some of the day with us and then leave us. We set off to rejoin the Cumbria Way. The section from the tarn Chapel Stile was a mix of woods and stone wall lined tracks. We climbed up and down through wood and open meadow. The odd road section interspersed the woods and meadows. We crossed rivers over a variety of bridges and at Chapel Stile we waited for the shop to open to get some food to boost the calories we were using to keep going. We took advantage of any place we could boost our energy. The weather was not as hot as yesterday and made the walking easier.
From Chapel Stile the Cumbria Way enters the most scenic section in terms of rugged mountains. The Langdale Valley is rugged and wild looking. Stunning mountains line its side. I was very happy walking this section but the wind was picking up and the cloud was down on the tops. The short section where the trail cuts up along the hillside from Chapel Stile before dropping to the road near the New Hotel offers great views - but sadly not at their best today with the low cloud.
We walked on to the New Hotel and Karl left us at this point. Great to meet up again. As he left Keith and myself moved on. Two climbers were complaining as we talked to them that the only place in cloud today was the Lakes and they were unsure of the quality of the climb they had hoped for today. We called into the Old Dungeon Gill hotel for a drink, but we were too early as the bar was not open yet. So we moved on. The wide track from here to Stake Pass is an easy section to do and we followed it to Stake Pass.
Stake Pass was windy and we gained the top with no stops. We took in the views and chatted to some day walkers as we walked along side them. From there the path into Langstrath is one I know well. Since the last time I walked it a few years back there has been extensive work done on the path. Some of this work does not make the path blend in with the landscape. It looks wrong and poorly done in places. We found the rocky path slow going at times along the valley floor. Nothing new there. Langstrath is the longest uninhabited valley in the Lake District. One place I always have enjoyed. The Cumbria Way follows it and then alongside Stonethwaite beck to Rosthwaite and the cafe for a welcome break. Here I noted the weather was starting to change. Dark clouds and the need for softshell tops again to fend off the chill.
Keswick was the next destination. The path here again was one I know well and we made fast progress. It is a well worn trail but a great walk. Wood and lake shore were enjoyed and we had to don our waterproof tops as the rain started. I contemplated the walk to where we had planned to wild camp being a wet and less enjoyable walk ahead of us than we had hoped for. We pushed on and got to Keswick. We sat outside a cafe under an awning enjoying a drink and pie, talking to some mountain bikers. The rain still fell. We had a good break and decided to go for it. Luck was on our side. The rain stopped. We left town and headed uphill heading to Skiddaw house. The climb up out of town soon done we took in the views.
The sun was starting to shine through the dark clouds and the views started to open out before us. This section was just great. It is a fantastic path along here and we enjoyed the early evening. Great path and great views. The only people we met were mountain bikers enjoying a late evening ride. We pushed on and camped by Salehow beck. It was again late and we got the tents and shelters up and then we got to bed. It was a cold night but a dry one with no rain. As I laid there the babbling beck and sound of the night found in the hills reminded me of why I enjoy wild camping as much as the walk itself. I don't see camping for a night as just a means to an end to enable me to walk the next day. The camping and being out there is as much of the journey as the miles walked.
No rain showers awoke me this night. I awoke early to look at the dawn. Ice had formed on the flysheet but my quilt kept me very warm. I had, like the night before, not used any bivy. I was warm and comfy. Dawn brought some fine colour in the sky as I laid in bed looking out from my shelter at the hills. Great view and one I wanted to enjoy as long as I could. Still I needed to get up as we had a long day ahead and we now planned to finish in three days.
We passed Skiddaw House YH and no one was about. It was cold and all our insulating layers were worn to keep us warm as we hiked. It was a while before the warm rays of the sun warmed us and we got back to wearing t-shirts. We saw a couple wild camping Crainsgill beck and they had made a fire. This annoys me. They ruin the ground and don't leave no trace. I wish the National Park service would stop this before they ruin it for us all and a camping ban is imposed.
We soon made our way up on to the highest point of the Cumbria Way, High Pike. I have never been here before and the views did not disappoint today. A cloud inversion could be seen in the distance and the Galloway hills summits rose through the cloud. It was a fantastic high point of the walk. The best views we had and it made for a fine view before the fields and valley at the end. Views enjoyed, we headed down to make for Caldbeck and a break.
Caldbeck made a good rest spot. Pies, cold drinks consumed we moved on. From here the Cumbria Way follows the line of the River Caldew. The path passes in and out of woods and is a pleasant section of the Cumbria Way to walk. Day walkers strolled along the river bank and their dogs played in the water. Hot sunshine made for a fine day. I enjoyed the path and walk along the river bank. Memories of childhood walks along river banks came back and the good weather made it a relaxing day for a walk.
We neared Dalston, to find that the bridge over the river at Buckabank that takes you into Dalston was blocked off. No warning sign tells you this. We arrived and looked at the diversion map. We ignored the map and climbed the barriers at each end of the bridge. Thirsty, we wanted a drink. No barriers were going to stop this. Dalston was a nice place and we stopped a while. In reflection the Cumbria Way needs to terminate here.
From Dalston the Way follows a tarmac track to Carlisle. It's awful. We kept going as fast as we could to get done, now. The tarmac track was busy with cyclists enjoying the sunshine and folks sat by the river relaxing. We walked into Carlisle to the edge of the Castle. From the Castle we walked to the tourist information centre which is the official end of the walk. It was ten minutes past five in the afternoon. We had done it in two days and six and half hours. I was pleased but disappointed in the last few miles and ending location.
Footnote.
The Cumbria Way is a great walk. Best enjoyed over four or five days. Finish at Dalston and enjoy it. The paths are rocky and hard going in places. Don't underestimate time on it. Some sections take longer to walk than you might think. There are plenty of supply points and camp sites or wild camp locations. If I did it again, I would do it alone and faster and end at Dalston. If with friends I would do it over four days and have more time in pubs on the way enjoying the walk.
The Cumbria Way is a great walk. Best enjoyed over four or five days. Finish at Dalston and enjoy it. The paths are rocky and hard going in places. Don't underestimate time on it. Some sections take longer to walk than you might think. There are plenty of supply points and camp sites or wild camp locations. If I did it again, I would do it alone and faster and end at Dalston. If with friends I would do it over four days and have more time in pubs on the way enjoying the walk.
Our daily mileage was
Friday the 22 April 18.8 miles
Saturday the 23 April 28.74
Sunday the 24 April 24.02
Total 71.56 miles on my mapping software with the detour to wild camp above Tarn Hows. Also there is a lot of ascent to the miles. Pack light and you'll find it's not hard.
Photos were taken on a Panasonic DCM-LX3. I shot in JPEG and found the pace of the walk did not allow much time for composing shots. Still, I was pleased with some photos. The only editing done is to crop some shots and adjust exposure up a stop or down. Apart from that I did nothing to the photos.
.jpg){kind=link}
46 comments:
I agree about the path from Stake Pass into Langstrath. It's more like a cycleway than a footpath. A shame because Langstrath has a real wilderness feel.
Looks like a nice walk though. Shame about the Carlisle end. Perhaps it would be better to walk north to south and get the least attractive bit over with first.
Good training for the TGOC.
Well done Martin on completing the walk. I love the photo of dawn from inside the trailstar. The photographs are excellent. In my view your report clearly indicates the benefits of going light ( more distance less tiredness).
Any gear comments?
Lovely pictures. It doesn't look like the spring has come very far in the second and seventh photos.
great write up, the photos are great, especially liking the one of the sun coming up on the right with yr buddy walking in front. We were on stretches of same path within a few days of you
Great stuff again Martin. I guess the way ends at Carlisle cos its the county town and there's buses and trains from there?
Robin Langstrath is a gem. i think the path looks terrible. In fact I think the Lakes need to send their path building teams to Scotland to see how some of the paths their are superb and blend into the hills. it was good TGOI training. Not long now.
Roger thanks. Going light is always right. I often have done big days. Last May in Scotland I did mostly 20 mile days. I was not tired and my legs felt good. Feet took a pounding on the Tarmac. Kit wise. Trail shoes used were 320 but i did not like them on long days in the end. Should have gone with something else. Still they are good on everything else. Quilt was superb and no bivy taken. Rucksack was my AMP 40. Good but Gorilla is better and now clean and fixed. So it is on the TGO. I will do a kit write up.
Peter spring is less advanced their than my home. Glad you liked the photos as I now you take very good ones. Thanks.
David shame we did not cross paths. The photo you mention was one I was pleased with. it is a fine section to walk and the morning sun made it special that day.
Greg Dalston has a rail station and good links. Still the end has very good links to transport so I can see why it ends there. Still the Pennine Way for example ends in a village and I took a taxi to the station from it. So maybe Dalston would be a fine ending. I would recommend anyone to finish at it. Or start there. Down to the coast at Ulverston would be a fine ending. Glad you liked the trip report.
Great write up and pictures Martin. Well done for finishing at last.
That path through Langstrath looks pretty nasty. Any idea why they felt the need to put in, as Robin rightly says, a cycleway? Although having never been there I'm unaware what state the path was in beforehand, so it might be an improvement. I doubt it though.
Lovely pictures Martin,they give a real feel for the spirit of the walk. I've walked most of those places, but never had the privilege of camping out like you do. It's always good to read about though.
An excellent report Martin. That looked a fast-paced trip and certainly highlights the benefits of going light and being flexible about plans. Some excellent photos; I particularly like the dawn shots and the one of the mountains seen from the climb out of Keswick. I've still to do any walking in the Lakes but this certainly highlights some great areas to explore.
Nice read Martin,
Langstrath path, like it or not has been made for the Sunday afternoon strollers and of course bikes. It’s soon left behind. I don’t mind it to be honest but yes it could be better. (and i like to laugh at the people carrying bikes up Stake pass).
Some super pics. I particularly like the shot of Derwent Water best and the one of the hills below it.
Thanks Charlie. I think the path was fine as it was. But then mountain bikers needed skill to ride it. Maybe less is needed now and the trail does seem to suit riding it now down into langstrath. It is a fantastic valley to explore and I have had many a fine wild camp there over the years.
Colin glad the photos convey the walk well. Wild camping is a must try. Give it a go and think of the photos you will get of sunsets up high and the dawn.
Thanks Nick. Come and do a lakes meet sometime and we will show you some fantastic places. The dark cloud and light cutting it as the rain cleared coming out of Keswick was superb to see and photograph. Moments like that make hill walking amazing at times.
Alan Derwent Water always makes for good photos. The path into Langstrath is for bikes more than walkers now. Still it is a fine place to walk. Thanks.
A nice report, thanks! The Trailstar looks lovely, almost too lovely to resist...
Maria the Trailstar is a great shelter. I adore it. Get one if it fits your kit needed requirements for your trips. If not don't bother. Kit needs to meet the requirements for the trips we intend to use it. Some people rave about it and some have different views. Thanks.
Martin ,good report with some fine views. I always imagine the Cumbria Way to be a bit tame, but I think it would make a good 5 day walk for me.
I guess you are now ready for the TGOC
Mark
Mark there is always something I could do to be ready for the Challenge. But I reckon I am ready. Thanks.
Cumbria Way is a good walk. Five days would be nice and give time to enjoy it. Wild camps can be tricky if you did do five days. Plan ahead and camp late and you should be fine. There is always camp sites as well.
FANTASTIC BLOG MARTIN..KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Thanks Chris. Just followed the link to yours. I shall be having a long read of your trips.
Well done for completing in only 3 days, you certainly got the miles in! This time in a fortnight and we will be on our way on the TGO, day 4 for me and my first b&b and parcel should be waiting. Any idea what trail shoes you will be taking after the 320's pounded your feet?
Day 2.1 for me James and Ben Cruachan on the monday. No B&B that night.
Shoes might be 310. I wont use the Crosslites as they have tears in them which will get worse. 320 I found ok but not that good. Saying that my right foot took the pounding but it over compensates due to my old injury on the left. So maybe not the boots fault.
Cant wait for the Challenge now James. Booking accommodation and sorting food parcels this week. Maps to print and then the off. I am confident after the big days. One which was 28 miles and over 4000 ft up up. So not worried by any Challenge days. See you at the end. Where are you staying at the end on the Wednesday night?
I enjoyed this, especially your comment about camping being part of the experience. This is very much so for me so I was disappointed to see the recent BPL Mike Clelland article dismissing it.
Best of luck on the TGOC, you sound very much ready for it!
That's some mileage Martin. Like the look of the Trailstar and we're getting one sent, with a couple of Superlight Bivys as well, from MLD. We take the view that we'll both sleep under it, in bivys, and that'll save us a fair bit of weight (1kg between us) and add to the experience as well. I love the Fly Creek (and my chum loves the Power Lizard) but we both wanted to try tarp/bivy this year and the Trailstar (c.700g seam-sealed with guys and stakes) and a couple of cuben superlights (c.170g each) amount to about 1kg. Will let you know how they go but thanks for the great post.
Mike Clelland article lost me as well Helen. For me the time in camp listening to the sounds of nature, seeing the light as the sun sets on the hills and the changes to the scene as clouds roll over head casting giant shadows is magic and wonder to see. The camp is part of the journey and to be enjoyed. I am glad you liked the post. I hope to always share the joy I got from the walk and hopefully inspire others to go seek their adventure.
Maz I did not use a bivy this trip. I would take one on long walks still. I pitched the Trailstar at 125cm both nights and slept long ways one night init and across another night to see how that works. I was inside the inner pole with a huge depth to the door. I liked this as if it was bad weather I had maximum protection from any rain that could have blown in the opening. I would also consider and I am the Speed Mid. I feel it has a good wind shedding profile as it has equal sides unlike the DuoMid which on the long side the angle of the short forces the long side to be very tall and flat. Were the more true pyramid shape of the Speed mid seems to look like it will shed the wind better and agin good for two. One thing that is certain is the Trailstar will cope well in the wind. Have fun with it.
Not sure where I am going to stay in Montrose yet Martin, will wait and see how I feel. Probably the campsite but may feel like a splurge! I think that a curry may be in order though..........
A curry sounds good James. Been booking some accommodation today. I intend to wild camp and use B&B the other nights. No camp sites if possible.
I think MC's article re 'in camp' vs 'on trail' is bang on the money...the sleep out is merely a small part of the experience, not the goal...
Well done on completing the CW...I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. In comparison to you guys, I dawdled, lol!
Superb pics and trip report Martin, thanks once again for letting me tag along. I've already forgotten the pain and only remember the good bits of which there ware many. I see from the stats that you really could put the hammer down once you had got rid of the deadwood :-)
Owdbum Mikes view is "only mere minutes between sleeping and hiking" So do we get up and go walking in ten minutes. Do we eat all our food for the day as we walk? Hell it rains a lot in the UK and cooking under a shelter is the norm. I wrote "The camp is part of the journey and to be enjoyed" Time to see the deer come down the glen and just being there. Camp to me is not an inconvenience and sleep only event. That is how I viewed Mikes article. His view is non UL hikers arrive tied in camp. Maybe they do but then they might have had a great time on the days walk and then have a great time relaxing cooking some nice food and just being. So do many ULA hikers I reckon. Take the Cumbria Way. We had less time this time so went for it. Camp time was reduced but we still liked to chat and relax in the hills. We did that as it is nice to do that. You took your time but still we both enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
Karl you were not dead wood and glad to have your company. Hope we can meet up again.
That was an enjoyable write up, great photos too.
For me the camping plays a huge part in my enjoyment of being outside.
The Trailstar looked great. As you took no bivvy, what diid you use for a "ground sheet"?
itch scratched ;) i totally agree with you about how camping is all part of the adventure and not just a means to an end. some great photos of your 'bedroom' view. nice one :)
Anonymous thanks. I used a custom ground sheet made by Collin Ibbotson. 133g I think. It is a half the floor area of the Trailstar. Top kit from Colin and he is going to be making Packs soon as well.
Kate camping is fun. So if Mike is right we walk all day and then fall into our bed to sleep. We then awake and take off. So I sleep 6.5 h a day and take say 15 min each side to pack. That gives me 17 h a day to walk. At 3mph average as I am travelling light I will do 51 miles a day top. Take in breaks I walk 16h a day and then there is the evening meal to cook on the trail so call it 15.5h walking a day or 46.5 miles a day. Heck Andy Skurka does an average of 30mph. Somehow I don't get Mikes point. What I do get is camping is fun. Spending some time relaxing is fun when its out on a wild camp. Watching the sunset is fun. Just chilling watching the stars is fun. Walking 46miles a day might hurt in the end day after day. So it would not be fun. I am sticking to camp being part of the trip and and an enjoyable part as well. You're a star and thanks.
I enjoyed that very interesting read, know what you mean with camping I too love it
Thanks Paul. Sometimes I think the camp could be the big part of the day and the walking bit not much. Its about being out in the hills that matters. How we do that is down to us. I enjoy the wild camp lots. Hence the photos on the blog of them.
Custom made groundsheet? Any chance of a picture?
Good luck on the TGO!
Looking forward to the write up.
Anonymous check this snap.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29194309@N05/5235010978/
Mouse again!
Thanks for the link.
It looks very simple.
I can't tell from the snap but I take it there are no pegging points?
My Trailstar is on order, I've another couple of weeks before it arrives, so could use this time to create a groundsheet. What are the dimensions?
When you use it in winter do you use something different to the superlight bivvy?
Mouse It has elastic cords that line up with the peg points on the Trailstar. I use the superlite bivy in winter and till now. I wanted to see how it went without the bivy. I will take a bivy on the Challenge as it will be useful kit on a long walk. Contact Collin and see if he will make you one.
Hey Martin. I think that I may have accidentially blocked you on twitter last night whilst fiddling with settings on my iphone. Think I have sorted it but not sure if my @Rye1966 tweets are getting through to you?
James getting the tweets fine mate.
James getting the tweets fine mate.
I enjoyed that very interesting read, know what you mean with camping I too love it
Owdbum Mikes view is "only mere minutes between sleeping and hiking" So do we get up and go walking in ten minutes. Do we eat all our food for the day as we walk? Hell it rains a lot in the UK and cooking under a shelter is the norm. I wrote "The camp is part of the journey and to be enjoyed" Time to see the deer come down the glen and just being there. Camp to me is not an inconvenience and sleep only event. That is how I viewed Mikes article. His view is non UL hikers arrive tied in camp. Maybe they do but then they might have had a great time on the days walk and then have a great time relaxing cooking some nice food and just being. So do many ULA hikers I reckon. Take the Cumbria Way. We had less time this time so went for it. Camp time was reduced but we still liked to chat and relax in the hills. We did that as it is nice to do that. You took your time but still we both enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
Karl you were not dead wood and glad to have your company. Hope we can meet up again.
Thanks Chris. Just followed the link to yours. I shall be having a long read of your trips.
Maria the Trailstar is a great shelter. I adore it. Get one if it fits your kit needed requirements for your trips. If not don't bother. Kit needs to meet the requirements for the trips we intend to use it. Some people rave about it and some have different views. Thanks.
Lovely pictures Martin,they give a real feel for the spirit of the walk. I've walked most of those places, but never had the privilege of camping out like you do. It's always good to read about though.
Robin Langstrath is a gem. i think the path looks terrible. In fact I think the Lakes need to send their path building teams to Scotland to see how some of the paths their are superb and blend into the hills. it was good TGOI training. Not long now.
Roger thanks. Going light is always right. I often have done big days. Last May in Scotland I did mostly 20 mile days. I was not tired and my legs felt good. Feet took a pounding on the Tarmac. Kit wise. Trail shoes used were 320 but i did not like them on long days in the end. Should have gone with something else. Still they are good on everything else. Quilt was superb and no bivy taken. Rucksack was my AMP 40. Good but Gorilla is better and now clean and fixed. So it is on the TGO. I will do a kit write up.
Peter spring is less advanced their than my home. Glad you liked the photos as I now you take very good ones. Thanks.
David shame we did not cross paths. The photo you mention was one I was pleased with. it is a fine section to walk and the morning sun made it special that day.
Greg Dalston has a rail station and good links. Still the end has very good links to transport so I can see why it ends there. Still the Pennine Way for example ends in a village and I took a taxi to the station from it. So maybe Dalston would be a fine ending. I would recommend anyone to finish at it. Or start there. Down to the coast at Ulverston would be a fine ending. Glad you liked the trip report.
Post a Comment