08 July, 2012

Rain ends play:


Trip report Lakes 30th June and 1st July 2012

The path is a good one on the corridor route. Rocky scrambles in places, fine views.  The steps before me would take me up onto high summits and wonderful vistas on a clear day.  Today the stream crossing the path was in flood, the steps ahead funnelled water down from higher above, creating another stream. Rain lashed me, everything was soaked; typical Lake Land weather.

I had timed my arrival on the Saturday, I hoped, to allow me to start my walk as the rain cleared. Hope is always good; if not we would believe the weather forecast and never go walking.

I had a brief look around town with idea of buying a trekking umbrella. Rohan shop, "Just sold the last one, try Fishers."  Fishers: "sold out".  I walked back to the car, I noticed a new shop selling, surprise, surprise, outdoor gear.  This one also had a big display of axes! What the heck!  It's the Lakes, not the Yukon.

I shouldered my pack, and left town.  Passing a visitor who the words 'excuse me' seemed lost on.

The rain stopped. I walked to the  Allerdale Ramble, heading down Borrowdale. Dark clouds cast shadows over the fells, which were a sea of green from the seemingly constant rainfall of late.



Duke of Edinburgh participants lined the trail.  Big packs, and at their young age it would be big adventure.  "Good luck," as I left them behind.  At one place on the route the path has a high and lower section. Fallen trees forced me to go through soaking wet bracken to gain the higher path.

I was making good time, the odd shower found me covering the camera up, as well as pulling the hood of my jacket up.




Borrowdale is a majestic valley; native woodland trees line the slopes.  My thoughts turned to my up-and-coming USA walk.  Treelined trails galore where I was going, I was looking more and more forward to it.




I passed Castle Crag, then down to Seatoller.  Rosthwaite Fell and Glaramara dominated the landscape.  The dull, overcast sky refused to clear, marring the scene somewhat.

Where the road crosses a bridge I took the track down to Seathwaite.  I hoped the cafe was open, but I found that it had closed in the years since I last came this way.  A junior member of the owning family at the farm had opened a tea shack.  A drink and chat with day walkers gave a brief stop.

From there I took the tourist route up by Stockley Bridge.  I went up hoping the cloud base would lift, as well as the rain hold off. 

I could see the rain and cloud lashing in on the higher fells. I would not normally seek to camp at Styhead Tarn.  A camp spot  too much used and too many pass by doing the Three Peaks Challenge, but I had little option tonight.  It gave shelter from the worst of the weather.   I pitched, cursing as I broke a V peg on the rocky ground.  I got water from the higher streams and witnessed another group pissing 10 ft from the stream flowing in the tarn.  

W*£@&£$ the lot of them.





I chatted to some climbers who seemed to care about the hills and leave no trace.  Sunset was dull and uninspiring. I turned in for the night.  I was disturbed, time to time, by groups of Three Peaks participants shouting in the dark as they went to summit Scafell Pike.  

I awoke to rain.  Showers were the forecast: persistent rain was the reality.   Heavy gusts of wind blew the sides of the SoloMid in against the inverted trekking poles which held its shape.  Glad I didn't have a DuoMid, on which the sides would not be so well supported. 

I packed, mulled over my plan of doing the 3000ft peaks, then left.  I took the Corridor Route. Classic route, stunning views as you walk it on a clear day.  Today I was alone on it, rain lashing me as I walked.  I made my way up.  I stopped to take a photo, hoping to show the waterfalls.  I then kept moving to the top of Piers Gill.  This notorious place has a history of people thinking it's a safe way down in bad weather, where in truth it's a trap



I took my phone out to check the time and got it wet.  It turned itself off as I tried to check the track log of my route for my Social Hiking maps.  I cursed, but gave up trying to turn it back on.  Back to map and compass time. I kept going up.  A stream crossing the path was in flood, the steps ahead funnelled water down from higher above, creating another stream; everything was soaking wet, me included.


I picked the path up at the notchcolsaddlehausebwlch or what ever name you give a col to strike to the summit of Scafell Pike.  I met a group of day walkers coming.  They told me it was wet up top. It was wet right where I was standing.  I could not get any wetter unless I decided to swim in a tarn.  I made the summit, alone, no views and soaking wet.  Waterproofs have their limits.  Today's weather exceeded the ability of them to cope.

I recall a wet TGOC 2011.  I don't recall the chest pocket allowing much water ingress.   Yet on the summit the pocket on my hardshell was full of water.

With no views today my memories of days gone by painted a picture, giving me something to think on apart from the dire, wet, litter-strewn scenery I had.  The day of perfect sunshine backpacking at the end of a three day trip in the snow.  Mike and myself had the summits all to ourselves.  The morning when I pushed hard to bag a view. I did have all the views until 200ft from the summit when the mist rolled in front of my eyes.  The times I have taken YMCA residents up here.  Good memories.  Today's was relegated to the lower shelf of them


I decided to go out via Broad Crag.  I descended, wet slippery boulder fields and rock to cross.  Back up the slope to Broad Crag.  Along towards the pass to Esk Hause.

At Esk Hause I was below the cloud base.  I had some views, but the rain was hammering it down.  The streams that flow into Allencrags Gill had burst their banks, forming a small tarn. I went from there to Angle Tarn.  It rained harder.  Two fell runners came past.  

I looked ahead to the area I hoped to go to: thick cloud clung to the fell side.  I decided to go down, change of plan was needed.  The path into Langstrath made for a fast descent.  Slowly the visibility got better. I had light rain briefly.  I also made a mistake: going too far down.  At the bottom you cross the beck.  Today the beck was a raging torrent.  Crossing here would be suicidal.  I went back up.  I found  a spot to cross, a calm pool of water: lean across, grab large rock, into water thigh deep, pull and across, out other side.

From there I followed the path to join the Cumbria Way.  I met a couple planning on camping high. "Good luck..."  I pushed on down the valley.  Briefly the weather relented.  

Camera out, I took in the views.  It was the best I could hope for today.



The rain did not relent.  It came back in.  I hurried along the valley.  I stopped once more to take  a photo of the waterfalls.  Then moved on.


Rosthwaite has a cafe.  I got into it, a drink, hot food enjoyed. Plan B time.  I took the bus later to Keswick.  Maybe the Eastern Fells.  I checked the forecast.  More of the same in the morning.  I was soaked, the views crap.  My plan B was to start the car and go home.

37 comments:

R Andrews said...

This saying may be apt "man plans, God laughs"  It certainly has been a dire few weeks.I am almost glad my dicky knee has put a temp. end to hill walking!

chrissiedixie said...

Gosh that sounded wet! Been up Scafell Pike several times over the years and never had a view yet. Usually raining, and once was a white-out.
Sometimes it just has to be plan B...

Matthew King said...

Know how you feel mate, it wasn't much better in the Far Eastern Fells. Walkable, even campable with care, but where's the joy in constant rain and no views?

Peter Nylund said...

I guess the rain has to be really bad to stop a Brit, but obviously it can happen.

David Lintern said...

yep, that looks soggy and frustrating.  The burns are chocolate brown and over the banks up here too. 

James Lomax said...

Wet, wet, WET. Not ideal. But still soft and green, and nice to hear about.

AlanR said...

Despite the poor weather, some VG pics. Langstrath is a beautiful valley, one we think is up there with the best. Sorry to hear it was plan B but we have had some awful weather havn’t we. 
Styhead tarn! As you say, too much piss there now but there’s always somewhere just off the track to get some decent water.

Andymadley said...

I admire your fortitude in at least making the summit on such a god-awful day. You still managed quite a walk in such poor weather and it made for a great read regardless - sometimes you have to treat these sort of trips as £instructional adventures. I used to camp at Styhead Tarn back in the 80s but I guess it's too well known now. When you go back this way in sunshine try camping on the summit of Lingmell, a few spots to slip a reasonable sized tent in and views to die for
Cheers
Andy

James Boulter said...

Summer really is not playing ball this year is it?!  Scafell pike sounds a pretty miserable experience in that sort of weather, litter included...............

Andy said...

 I went up there last year and I swear there were 200 people on the top (it was sunny!!). Decided not to bother and went to Scafell instead, much quieter. Broad Stand is quite a handy deterrent to the masses :)

PhilR said...

I've only been up Scafell Pike once and it was exactly like this trip, weather and views where pants!! However fair play to you for persevering and getting to the top.

Karl said...

Sorry you didn't manage all you planned trip Martin, but at least you returned home safe which is what really matters. The lake district is not going anywhere soon so there will be other times.

Marcus Gough said...

+1 for Lingmel or Lingmel Col. Perfect spot for a scafell sunrise before the masses arrive or simply for some amazing views.

terrybnd said...

LOL Enjoyed that Martin. I could really feel how pissed off you might have been. Well, maybe not so annoyed but more frustrated. Looking at the pics it don't look too bad but then that aint the whole story is it.

It may have transpired against you, but I enjoyed the read mate. Better a rainy day out than a sunny day in the office so they say!

Martin Rye said...

Spot on mate.  Better out than in.  On a big walk I would have had a focus, a bad weather alternative. It was still good to get out. That is what matters.

Martin Rye said...

Next time we need to meet up and do a joint walk again Karl.  Email me by the way your address.  I have something for you.

Martin Rye said...

I must confess that was number 13 or 14 for me.  Views like the photo await.  Go on a good day Phil and enjoy.

Martin Rye said...

In conditions like that its crap mate.  Have you done it?

Martin Rye said...

Lingmell would be good.  Like that. I did see it as a gear and skill shake down for the US trip soon.  Appreciate the comment and input.  Helpful and insightful.

Martin Rye said...

+1 it is from me too.  Thanks Marcus.

Martin Rye said...

Langstrath is a gem.  I do intend to find that cave sometime there.  Photos turned out ok despite the weather. Thanks Alan.

Martin Rye said...

I doubt we will have anything but wet and green this summer.  Lets hope autumn brings better weather James.

Martin Rye said...

Its wet until next year it seems David.  lets hope it turns soon.  

Martin Rye said...

We can break at times Peter.  But we do walking in the rain.  We have little choice in that matter :)

Martin Rye said...

The joy is down in the valley and watching the waterfalls Matthew.  Like you say up high no views, no joy of much.  

Martin Rye said...

View is good.  Keep trying and hope you get it.  Thanks.

Martin Rye said...

Hope that Knee heals up and the weather clears for you to get out and have a good time soon.

alan.sloman said...

With that weather forecast I think I would have planned a few more pubs...  THIS WALK has the ODG and the Wasdale Head Inn in the itinerary - ideal for crappy weather.
Well done for getting out there!

alan.sloman said...

Not sure what happened there - Is it not possible to post links on this comment system?

Martin Rye said...

Links can work pal.  What is it?  Pubs are good, but nicer with a friend. 

Andrew Walker said...

At least you got out there and back Martin.
Summer has been crappy.
Actually, summer has been non existent.
Like you said, maybe Autumn will be the time to go.
Late Sep/Oct are often a great time of year, although shoter days.
I might manage a trip to Aran in Aug, but then again.....
Looks like the rucksack was a good'un though.

Martin Rye said...

Porter pack so far so good Andy.  i am smitten with it.  Weather is crap for a while longer.  I am out again this weekend.  Come along.  Peaks is the destination.  

Andrew Walker said...

 I would love to Martin, but tons to do this weekend, what with Olly off on Rugby Tour to canada next week, and end of term for Harriet.
But maybe some time in August.
Keep me posted

Sedona Trail said...

From what you've posted, the weather did seem a bit horrid. But I think you still had pretty cool pics even if you kept saying there were "no views". I guess I just love staring a open landscapes. Love the color contrast of your temporary shelter against all that green background :)

Martin Rye said...

Open Landscape is a joy.  Weather wise it was wet up top. Views down below day 1 and day 2 in the valley once dropped down.  Rain still lashing me at times.  Thanks for commenting.  I am now off to drive north for another walk.  Hope the rain is not too bad for this trip coming. 

markswalkingblog said...

Hi Martin, this can be a fantastic route in good weather. I enjoy the corridor route. Hard luck with the weather... I have just finished my trip report on Knoydart in June and I was so lucky with the weather - it just happens that way sometimes. Let's hope the USA is not the other way. They are on the other side of the jet stream to us and they are baking in record temperatures. I hope it will not be too hot for you.

Martin Rye said...

Mark it is a classic no doubt.  I was waiting for that Knoydart report and shall be reading it with anticipation.  USA trip is looking hot.   But we will see on the day.  Thanks Mark.  

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